頭上的王朝藝術～清代宮廷婦女簪飾之流變～

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"", "rights": "北京故宮博物院", "rightsLogo": "https://plaza.openmuseum.tw/files/muse_plaza/styles/square_thumbnail_100/public/default_rights/memder_non-02.png?itok=fGKM5I0r", "fileLicence": "創用CC 姓名標示-非商業性-禁止改作", "fileDisableLink": "0", "fileOversize": false }, "title": "頭上的王朝藝術～清代宮廷婦女簪飾之流變～", "desc": "帶你迅速了解清代婦女簪飾！<br>", "textColor": "white", "weight": 0 }, "timeline-nh1t1r3": { "id": "timeline-nh1t1r3", "type": "timeline", "sortable": true, "weight": 1, "sourceID": "112366" }, "text-g110b4m738": { "id": "text-g110b4m738", "type": "text", "sortable": true, "musicName": "無", "weight": 2, "title": "一、前言", "desc": "一、前言<br>「裝飾品」是代表婦女地位的重要工具，從古以來，裝飾品從高級階層的婦女墓葬中出土，顯示她身分與文化程度。跟著時代的變化，對於奢侈品的需求提高，裝飾品變成更華麗、更精彩。清代皇室婦女的裝飾品，尤其是簪飾，也存在一串流變，滿俗兩把頭越來越變大，到清末其被稱為「大拉翅」；頭上的鈿子越來越精彩，裝飾巨大化的頭髮。在這展覽中，我們根據陳慧霞的<a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\" href=\"https://www.airitilibrary.com/Publication/alDetailedMesh?docid=a0000480-201612-201702070013-201702070013-53-124\">〈清代宮廷婦女簪飾之流變〉</a>，論述清代婦女的頭飾如何變化，探討其變化背景。<br>依據皇室服裝規定，髮飾始終遵守滿俗，除了朝冠與吉服冠以外，還有兩把頭與鈿子為皇室婦女日常髮型與髮飾。鈿子與兩把頭同時都發展，漸漸變華麗，成為日常與儀式時的髮型與髮飾。因此，鈿子取代朝冠與吉服冠的地位。後來，巨大化的兩把頭不再需要立體的鈿子，進而取代鈿子的地位，到清末，那巨大的兩把頭成為皇室婦女的代表形象。<br>簪飾為宮廷財產，在擁有者的后妃過世之後，會被轉而賞賜給其他妃嬪，因此陳慧霞從「黃籤」的紀錄猜皇室后妃之間的關係。我們可以看到慈禧太后透過打扮優雅的服裝，以大型的兩把頭與簪飾來顯示自我形象，由此可知，宮廷簪飾與后妃的權力有相當大的關係。<br><br><br>", "musicText": "", "musicURL": "" }, "basic-oo4mucstnu": { "id": "basic-oo4mucstnu", "type": "basic", "sortable": true, "primaryObj": { "oid": "61086ee31f73be7f32c8c43af30ea703", "fileType": "image", "fileURI": "https://plaza.openmuseum.tw/files/muse_plaza/muse_styles/w1024/mcode/c1338ba39c4367629d91785c130e48cc.jpg?itok=FWU-Ayos", "level": "primary", "title": "囍字珠翠鈿子", "desc": "", "thumbURI": "https://plaza.openmuseum.tw/files/muse_plaza/muse_styles/square_thumbnail_100/mcode/c1338ba39c4367629d91785c130e48cc.jpg?itok=I01yTY3e", 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"所謂點翠工法，乃是利用中國傳統貴金屬進行加工，再以翠鳥羽毛鑲嵌在金屬底座上製作成首飾或是工藝品，並非像大部分人所想那樣以翡翠進行裝飾。點翠的成本非常高昂，遂成為身份地位的象徵。點翠技術在清朝乾隆時期達到高峰，而在後續的嘉慶、道光期間，這種大型佐以點翠工法的簪飾興盛一時，但到咸豐咸豐年間卻逐漸收斂。例如上方的〈銀鍍金靈芝紋簪〉（左）和〈銀鍍金點翠嵌寶福壽簪〉（右），都能在上方看到點翠工法的痕跡。" }, "basic-9y27erhk41": { "id": "basic-9y27erhk41", "type": "basic", "sortable": true, "primaryObj": { "oid": "6b402b96b5e341edfa808879a4a80236", "fileType": "image", "fileURI": "https://plaza.openmuseum.tw/files/muse_plaza/muse_styles/w1024/mcode/393919597441143d880d942a0bfbee11.jpg?itok=66ABtdx4", "level": "primary", "title": "清 同治 銀鍍金鑲綠松石菊花簪", "desc": "", "thumbURI": "https://plaza.openmuseum.tw/files/muse_plaza/muse_styles/square_thumbnail_100/mcode/393919597441143d880d942a0bfbee11.jpg?itok=x9kxlZeO", "thumbMediumURI": "https://plaza.openmuseum.tw/files/muse_plaza/muse_styles/thumbnail_medium/mcode/393919597441143d880d942a0bfbee11.jpg?itok=k9iH_GuI", "thumbBigURI": 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"https://plaza.openmuseum.tw/files/muse_plaza/muse_styles/thumbnail_big/mcode/dccc0e104b4542497016cf50e0a41a2e.jpg?itok=z25kRu41", "background": "https://plaza.openmuseum.tw/files/muse_plaza/muse_styles/w1920/mcode/dccc0e104b4542497016cf50e0a41a2e.jpg?itok=S6eeAxlM", "mfid": "dccc0e104b4542497016cf50e0a41a2e", "musicURL": "", "musicName": "", "fileCreator": "", "rights": "國立故宮博物院", "rightsLogo": "https://plaza.openmuseum.tw/files/muse_plaza/styles/square_thumbnail_100/public/default_rights/memder_non-03.png?itok=h0rkcAOw", "fileLicence": "創用CC 姓名標示-非商業性-禁止改作", "fileDisableLink": "0", "fileOversize": false }, "title": " 第三期：光緒、宣統", "desc": "立體、晶瑩透亮的簪飾<br>", "musicName": "無", "weight": 16, "musicText": "", "musicURL": "" }, "text-w47b4dwewt": { "id": "text-w47b4dwewt", "type": "text", "sortable": true, "musicName": "無", "weight": 17, "title": "第三期（光緒、宣統）的簪飾特徵", "desc": "○兩把頭的樣式發展出高聳的大拉翅<br>○很少使用金纍絲，轉為以珍珠、翡翠和寶石為主<br>○立體的風格<br>", "musicText": "", "musicURL": "" }, "text-sl29d1fi52": { "id": "text-sl29d1fi52", "type": "text", "sortable": true, "musicName": "無", "weight": 18, "desc": "陳慧霞指出，光緒朝並沒有黃籤的資料留下來，再加上同治與光緒兩朝皆由慈禧太后掌權，並不容易在光緒朝畫出分界線，但光緒朝在簪飾上，仍可看見突破性的改變。\n\n而在兩把頭的發展方面，光緒朝之後，出現髮架式高聳的大拉翅。 <br>", "musicText": "", "musicURL": "", "title": "關於第三期的分期方法" }, "text-nwyymxdzqd": { "id": "text-nwyymxdzqd", "type": "text", "sortable": true, "musicName": "無", "weight": 19, "title": "什麼是大拉翅？", "desc": "<div>還記得小時候常看的清宮劇《還珠格格》嗎？貴婦人頭上那頂又黑又重的帽子就是「大拉翅」。大拉翅是身分地位的象徵，並不是每個人都能戴的。</div><div>不過要注意的是，大拉翅流行於晚清，所以《還珠格格》那個年代的人其實是不會戴大拉翅的，劇組誤用，搞錯年代了。</div><div>想了解更多大拉翅嗎？歡迎點進下方國立歷史博物館的連結，一起來認識大拉翅吧！<br><a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\" href=\"https://collections.culture.tw/nmh_collectionsweb/collection.aspx?GID=MQMSMAM8MA\">國立歷史博物館藏《宮帽》（館藏編號92-00245）</a></div><br><br><br>", "musicText": "", "musicURL": "" }, "imgs-euavfcm0sz": { "id": "imgs-euavfcm0sz", "type": "imgs", "sortable": true, "multiObjs": [ { "oid": "ad96e7071eb6d31a6aa336c8c0f8e9ad", "title": "翠玉蝴蝶簪", "desc": "", "thumbURI": 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